Friday, March 24, 2023

ENGLAND, Settle - Settling In

Hi Family,

I sent out another letter about a week ago, but it was before I figured out the notification process.  In case you have no idea where we are, you can read that one first to get the lay of the land.

* * * * *

When you've been going full tilt for awhile, it takes a few weeks to wind down and get over the instinct to be "busy" all the time.  For the first couple of weeks in Settle, I didn't need to go anywhere I couldn't walk, or drive in 5 minutes or less.

Tractor
Even tractors need a bite or pint
Colin was busy on a work assignment, and Darwin and I wandered the town, going a different way each time we set out from the house.  Leave the house and turn left, Darwin gets to run down the hill into town.  Leave the house and turn right, we get to visit the sheep and walk in the hills.  And sometimes build snowmen.


Hills

We're becoming friendly with the locals:

CatSheep    

We've got library cards for the local library, railcards for locals' discounts on the trains (Darwin rides free), and have found a spot in a nursery school for Darwin a couple mornings a week.  I know you've already seen the video about how he feels about that...

I remember been horribly afraid of going to kindergarten - I was in the afternoon class, and a van would come pick up the kids after lunch.  Mom would stand at the front door as I got in the van, making sure I greeted the driver when he boisterously said hello.  It took everything in me to get that “hello” out back to him...

It must be its toll, for at dinner one evening after school, Darwin informed me that:  “Mom, I’m feeling groggy and cantankerous”.

The land rises from the dales in rolling green hills (many dotted with sheep of course), criss-crossed with dry stone walls.  The weekends draw walkers, hikers, runners, bikers from the cities as far away as London, a steady stream of steps and voices passing by our window.  Which leads to the popular sport of Fell Running.  If a ‘Dale’ is a valley, a ‘Fell’ is a _______.  I might have to enter a Fell race or two, to experience the joy of running up a hill as fast as I can then back down again.  The long distance version (I typically prefer long races to lung-puking short races) involves connecting multiple fells and trying to got back to the start within 24 hours.  Doesn’t seem to be much in between...

Darwin conquered his first fell on one of our early walks into the hills:

Climbing fell

Top of fell

Music abounds in Settle.  I had a night out on my birthday eve, hearing the Settle Orchestra play at the Settle Parish Church.  The church is a relatively new one, completed in 1838, but still large and stony which made for fantastic acoustics,  The orchestra is made up of about 40-50 musicians, playing strings, oboe, clarinet, bassoon, flute, french horn, a trumpet and timpani, and ranges in age from can-just-see-eyes-over-the-music-stand bassoon player to the timpani player whom I am sure was in her 80s.  She was a combination of Nanna, Shirley and a bit of An'sis too - elegantly dressed with white, white hair, focused and serious, and she played the timpani "bang on" and like she meant it, in such a manner that made me think I would not want to upset her.

They played Mendelssohn, Tchaikovsky and Beethoven - the cello soloist playing the Tchaikovsky was most certainly not a beginner.  They started off a little shaky - the violins a bit squeaky, some missed timing, a few trumpet blahts, but once they warmed up there were many moments of beautiful sound, and not one musician flubbed their stand-out or solo bits.  The conductor, a young Chinese lady (born in 1998!?!?) currently studying at the nearby College of Music, was relaxed and professional.  The church was full, nobody clapped at the wrong time, and at intermission, people went to the church kitchen for a cup of tea and cake.  It's been so long since I've seen live music, I think I was smiling the whole time.  I'm not sure which I enjoyed more - wondering about all the people, or listening to the music.  It also made me appreciate the level of talent and skill possessed by professional musicians and orchestras.

You’ll be pleased to know mom that the daffodils came up just in time for my birthday.

Birthday


Friday, March 10, 2023

ENGLAND, Settle - New Home for Awhile

Hi family,

It has already been a week since we moved into our home of the next 3 months, at the beginning of March.  We're in Settle now, a small town located at the South end of the Yorkshire Dales National Park, in the North part of England.  What is a 'dale'?  Ah, but not a hill or peak, as one might assume, but rather, a valley!

The old streets are narrow and most people say hello - we chose Settle after meeting it when staying nearby last summer.

Map of UK
Blue dot marks the spot - Settle, Yorkshire


Map - Yorkshire Dales
Closer-up view

(Probably not many Canadians, or Brits for that matter, besides Kathryn who have celebrated a birthday in Barrow-in-Furness - bottom tip below the Lake District, on the west coast).


Settle, ENGLAND

Walking down the hill to the town
centre (Market Place) [Colin's photo]
Mar.1 - May 30

We are in a cozy (read: tiny) row house at the top of an old trade route coming down into town.  Some of the houses at the bottom of the hill, near the market square, date back to the 1600s; ours might be a few years younger.

We did some very focused “training” with Darwin about stepping out the door and STAYING ON THE STEP until confirming there are no cars (or big quarry trucks, or tractors, or Land Rovers) whizzing by.  Fortunately for him, he’s very conscientious and takes this check seriously, informing us loudly that he's checked and can/can't hear/see any vehicles.

Best things about Settle so far:

  • friendly people
  • hills and trails in all directions out the front door
  • a rocky climbing area just down the road
  • rolling, fantastically smooth, low-traffic (watch out for tractors), single-lane roads over the hills perfect for a bike ride
  • a bike shop, with excellent coffee
  • sheep all over the place
  • a weekly market selling everything from apples to zoot suits
  • pretty much everything else you need for food, pubs, coffee shops, hardware store, butcher, outdoor equipment (hopefully not needed after the X suitcases of our own that we brought)

Luggage
Loading up at YVR

We’re surrounded by mostly-bare hills, which means that unlike the forested west coast of BC, you can see for miles.

View of Settle
Town of Settle below, from my run up the hill

Window view of Settle
View from upstairs window, very English

A couple days ago, it snowed all day, horizontally.  I went for a run in the morning and it was... exhilarating?!

Winter window view of Settle
View from upstairs window, not very English

It gave us the excuse we were hoping for - to justify lighting the wood stove, and to justify bringing our winter boots.

Wood stove
We could hear the wind gusting in the stove pipe...

Snowman
The following day was a Very Quiet day in town - there was pretty much zero traffic going up/down the single-lane hill in front of our house, except for a valiant delivery van.  He gave it a heroic effort to meet his delivery expectations, only to have to back back down the 12% grade.  At the first driveway at the edge of town, he seized the opportunity to turn around and attempt to finish the hill going forward, only to end up perpendicular to the road with his nose sniffing a stone wall.  Darwin and I, headed out for a walk, could still hear his tires spinning, stuck between a rock and a hard place, long after we were out of town...